Thursday, June 5, 2014

Day 5: Columbus Cemetery ~ Orgonoponica ~ Hemingway's Villa ~ Cojimar ~ Morro Castle ~Salsita Art Workshop ~ Dinner & Salsa Dancing

[Click on photos to enlarge and click on links for more information.]

Columbus Cemetery

The Cemeterio de Cristobal Colon, named for Christopher Columbus, was founded in 1876 in the Verdado neighborhood of Havana. The 140-acre cemetery is noted for its many elaborately sculpted memorials. According to Wikipedia, it is generally held to be the most important in Latin America in historical and architectural terms. The builder, Galician architect Calizto Arellano de Loira y Cardoso, became its first occupant when he died before his work was completed.
     The statues on the main gate were placed there in 1901.
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The design of the main chapel at the center of the cemetery is apparently based on Il Duomo in Florence, Italy.
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Modern styles mix with the historic.
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The woman with pelicans is a detail on a 75-foot high monument dedicated to firefighters who lost their lives in a great fire May 17, 1890.
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Many people visit the grave of Amelia, a young mother buried with her child. Legend has it that the baby was placed at its mother's feet, but when the grave was opened, the babe was in its mother's arms. Her husband visited the grave every day. He performed a small ritual that is copied by visitors today who ask for intercession.
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Nearby are hundreds of plaques giving thanks for answered pleas.
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Organoponica 

In the district of Alamar on the outskirts of Havana, we visited an organic farm called an organoponica, one of many such urban farms in Cuba that produce much of the country's vegetables. See this Youtube video for more information about the establishment and operation of these farms.

The seedling house. Thousands of seedlings get their start here before being moved into the fields.
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When the Soviet Union broke up in the 1980s, Cuba lost a source of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. The organic farms were thus born of necessity. Drawing on the experience of others and experimentation, it was found insects get confused when confronted with a variety of plants. The basil, marigolds and sunflowers planted alongside this lettuce field help to keep the insects at bay.
     Many of the beds are raised to conserve water and soil.
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Our guide introduced us to the fruit of this tree, which smells and tastes like blue cheese. I thought she called it a neem tree, but the photos of neem trees I found on Google don't look like this. Anyone?
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A field of new lettuces enjoying a misty watering. Our guide mentioned that the lettuce is their favorite crop for its quick return as it takes only 45 days from planting to sale.
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The urban soil is not the best for gardening, so the farm makes its own compost and humus to improve it. These large cement vats are full of red worms busy turning rice husks into humus to enrich the earth.
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Our guide said that the farm has a tractor that seldom works. They rely on horses, oxen, and human labor. Workers are paid a living wage and receive good food for their efforts.
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 It was interesting to see the Santaria altar at the farm. 
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On a smaller scale, some families raise produce on their own land and sell it in the cities. These two photos were taken from the bus window.
Jim DiNapoli
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Finca Vigia

Our next stop was San Francisco de Paula, the village where Ernest Hemingway had his home, called Finca Vigia. The house is now a museum.
      His 38-foot fishing boat, the Pilar, is on display.
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The interior of the house is not open to the public but for a peek through doors or windows, but Lloyd managed an invitation from one of the ground crew to relax for a few minutes in the pool house.
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We had an opportunity to sample a guarapo cocktail, made from guarapo (sugar cane juice), pineapple and lemon juice.
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The Vigia Cocktail warns against adding rum to the drink. :)
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Cojimar

Cojimar is the fishing village where Hemingway kept his boat. We had lunch there and strolled along the seawall to visit a memorial to Hemingway and a small lookout fort, seen here in the distance.
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Lloyd swears he took the next two photos near the cigar factory in Havana, but according to the date/time stamp on them, they were near the restaurant where we had lunch in Cojimar. In any event, they're included because I like the subtle colors and textures.
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Morro Castle and Views of Havana

Morro Castle, built in 1589 and named for the biblical Magi, when Cuba was under the control of Spain, is a fortress that sits high above Havana Harbor opposite old town Havana. It can be seen for miles around. A storm front was rolling through, which offered some dramatic effects.
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Morro Castle with Havana in the background.
Jim DiNapoli

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This wagon was selling guarapo near Morro Castle.
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Art Workshop

Artist Lazaro Salsita operates an after school workshop for children. Here he is describing one of the collage books he has created. (See more images of Salsita and the workshop on Google images here.)
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Jim DiNapoli

While we were busy taking photos of the children, one of them got busy taking pictures of us. :)
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Lloyd & Kathie got into the spirit with a paper weaving that attracted some attention.

Barbara Kay
Barbara Kay

Hotel Telegrafo

After a long day with many adventures, we returned to the hotel to freshen up before our last dinner in Havana. The creative maid had fashioned a surprise for us from the bedspreads and a sunflower --two swans with a nice note wishing us bon voyage.
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Dinner and Salsa Dancing

Our last dinner in Havana was a special one that included Buena Vista Club style music and salsa dancers who gave us lessons at La California Restaurant and Bar.
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 The restaurant kitchen boasted a brick beehive oven.
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